Girisha Suri
Subjective Surrealism cover — the model facing front in the oversized dusted-olive coat and wide trousers, the hand-doodled surrealist embroidery panel crossing the body.

Research Projects · 2022

Subjective Surrealism

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01 — RANGE PLAN

Range plan — six illustrated looks in rust, olive, teal and lemon, each styled with the doodle-embroidered panel or scarf.

02 — TREND ANALYSIS

Trend analysis — 'Dopamine Minimalism': minimal-maximal silhouettes and mood-boosting colour for A/W 23/24.Trend analysis — 'The Oversized Scarf': blanket-dressing proportions and chunky rib knits in women's soft accessories.Trend analysis — 'Collage Me' print story: childlike doodles and free-flowing shapes from WGSN A/W 23/24.Trend analysis — 'Dopamine Dressing' colour story: clean brights on simple silhouettes with swatch palette.Trend analysis — 'Cool Greens and Pastels' colour story: alpine frost, sage leaf and pink clay palette direction.

03 — INSPIRATION

Inspiration — works by Joan Miró, Kazimir Malevich and Wassily Kandinsky, distilled into shapes, lines, structure, flow and bio-morphic forms.Inspiration — Salvador Dalí's Paranoiac Critical Method and drawing from a transcendent state of mind.Inspiration — media experiments with painted lines, distortion and abstraction to translate into garment silhouettes.

04 — CONCEPT

Concept spread — understanding surrealism through small contradictions and simple illusions rather than exaggeration.Concept spread — surreal art references, Calder-style mobiles and wire sculpture, on studying the unconscious mind and deception in the smallest illusions.

05 — COLOUR INSPIRATION

Colour inspiration — Joan Miró's bright and subdued tones with bold black accents, building an 'almost monochromatic' palette.

06 — COLOUR BOARD

Colour board — enriched contemporary greens, pastels and accents laid out as abstract shapes and swatch bars.

07 — PROCESS

Process — automatic surrealism: spontaneous drawing to suppress the conscious mind, with a Miró reference plate.Process — raw pen doodles amalgamating veristic and automatic surrealism into a print via the Paranoiac Critical Method.

08 — EMBROIDERY DEVELOPMENT

Embroidery development — the finished doodle print beside the stitched sample, developed in a transcendent state and absorbed as an embroidered element.

09 — SILHOUETTE DEVELOPMENT

Silhouette development — annotated coat sketches exploring bigger collars, deeper necks, longer sleeves and the printed lapel panel.

10 — FIT DEVELOPMENT

Fit development — toiles on the stand with notes on shoulder elevation, collar overlap and pleats, beside the embroidery print sample.

11 — TECH PACK

Design room specification — white technical front and back flats of the overcoat with the printed lapel panel.Design room specification — coloured front and back flats of the overcoat in dusted olive.Construction call-outs — overlapping collars, single-piece body with shoulder dart, cuff detail, welt pocket and side vent.Lapel panel specification — the asymmetric collar-and-lapel piece drafted as a single-piece pattern.Collar construction — the doodle-inspired bigger collar, centre-back inverted box pleat and natural roll line.Trouser specification — white front, back and side flats with box pleats.Trouser specification — coloured front, back and side flats in dusted olive.Overcoat measurement chart — nape to hem, sleeve, vent and pocket measurements keyed to the flat.Back and lapel panel measurement chart — centre-back, armhole, hem and panel round measurements.Trouser measurement chart — inner and outer leg, waist, zip and pleat measurements keyed to the flats.Gerber marker plan — coat and trouser pieces in the main olive poly-cotton, 4.28m of fabric.Gerber marker plan — the lapel panel in lemon-yellow cotton, 1.39m of fabric.Pattern piece layout — main and accent pieces: coat body, sleeves, lapel panel, cuffs and trouser blocks.Operation breakdown — preparation and assembly of the overcoat: fusing, bagging out, collar and sleeve operations.Operation breakdown — finishing the overcoat: facing, vents, hand-sewn hem and pressing.Operation breakdown — trouser preparation, assembly and finishing: pleats, concealed zip and waistband.Bill of materials — suiting, cotton, interlining, hooks and thread with costing to a total garment cost.

12 — LOOKBOOK

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